Somewhere Not So Far Away
After my love affair with all things Bohemian back in the Czech Republic, I decided that a visit to the Bohemia Quarter of Belgrade was on my ‘to-do’ list. The thing is, I’d mention it to my relatives, and they wouldn’t know what I was talking about. When they told me they just absolutely HAD to take me to Skadarlija, I didn’t say no. Only to find out that Skardarlija IS the Bohemian Quarter I was talking about. Too easy.
We made our way over, having a quick stop to see ‘Sveti Sava’, the major cathedral of Belgrade. Apparently, it is deplorable to go to Belgrade and not see the Sveti Sava. So I was expecting something great. It was big, don’t get me wrong, but it was unfinished inside, so probably not worth getting out of the car for. But anyway, here it is.
The one tiny section of the church that was completed.
With necessities out of the way, it was time for some food. And on to the Bohemian Quarter. Skadarlija is the cobblestone laneway that is lined with cafes and restaurants. It is well known for the famous artists and poets who frequented the Quarter in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. From romantic poets, to harsh Communists, it was a laneway buzzing with intellectuals and new ideas.
Old-world charm wins me over everytime.
Very typical Balkan 19th-century house.
And after a short wander down the street (which I love love love), we sauntered over to ‘Ima Dana’ (’There are Days’), a restaurant serving traditional Serbian cuisine.
After some careful deliberation over the menu, I opted for the Pork schnitzel covered in cheese and champignon sauce and a mixed salad. As shown here, the mixed salad consists of grilled peppers drizzled in garlic sauce, cabbage salad and a selection of cut vegetables. Delicious.
To my delight, a small band was playing old traditional Serbian songs at the restaurant. Asking me what song I would like played, and me responding that I don’t know any ‘Staro Gradske pesme’ (traditional songs), they sensed my accent and asked where I was from. So they played an old song called ‘Tamo Daleko’ (Somewhere Far Away) in response to my living in Australia. It was fantastic!
Here’s an interesting signpost. So Paris is just a little that-a-way? I love Europe and it’s closeness of cities!
Where to go to next?









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